Sept/Oct 2007

Making the most out of a short break

Snowdonia, the north western portion of Wales, boasts some of the most intriguing and rugged landscapes of Britain. The Snowdon Mountains are the highest range in England and Wales and have been designated as a National Park. The intensity of these peaks is enhanced by the sizzling seas that hug the Llyn peninsula and Cambrian coasts. With some planning, the highlights of this beautiful region can be explored in a five-day break.

A well-placed base is necessary if you want to explore the hotspots of Snowdonia in a few days. Betws-y-Coed (pronounced betoossycoyid) is a quaint village cradled by dense woodland and awe-inspiring mountain country, strategically placed at the point where the River Conwy meets its three tributaries — the Llugwy, the Medr and the Machno. Valleys, rivers and roads radiate out of Betws like the spokes of a cart wheel to reach every corner of Snowdonia. Betws-y-Coed means ‘The prayer house in the forest,’ and does justice to this tranquil village. Betws has catered for tourists since the 18th century and has hosted great artists like the renowned water colourist David Cox. It is the femme fatale amongst Snowdonia villages, luring unwary visitors with its natural wonders, such as the dramatic Swallow Falls, and the surreal Fairly Glen with its share of waterfalls and intriguing myths. Lodging in Betws can range from stylish country inns and hotels, to charming, family-run farms that will plunge you into the simple, hearty life of the locals.

Llanberris, a former slate-mining community, now the base camp for those seeking to climb Snowdon, is just a short drive from Betws. It is graced by the twin lakes of Llyn Padarn and Llyn Peris that flank the Llanberis Pass. If scaling the 1085-metre Snowdon is too much for you, why not embark on the Snowdon Mountain Railway that carries you right to the top? You can enjoy a high tea (literally!) at the summit café that opens from late May to mid-October. Llanberis also houses the National Slate Museum that commemorates the workers who quarried slate from the nearby mountains.

For the environmentally conscious, a visit to the massive hydroelectric power station is a must. This inconspicuous, clean-energy provider was built within the mountain through a system of tunnels carrying roads and waterways. Visitors can join a bus tour of this impressive feat of engineering.

Towering above Llanberis, the giant Yr Widdfa (Welsh for Snowdon), rules amongst the other peaks of Snowdonia. No wonder that it has fired the imagination of ancient Welsh people, giving rise to many legends. Snowdon Mountain is the highest peak in England and Wales and though compared to the giant mountain ranges of the world it may not seem so daunting, what it lacks in altitude, it makes up for in wild, unspoilt beauty. It is embellished by the rarest flowers and curious-looking insects, scarred by old mines and ennobled by its vests of ancient volcanic rock formations and fossil-bearing rocks.

Snowdon’s ecology is sometimes endangered by its own popularity as every year thousands of eager visitors seek to climb its rugged paths. The National Trust has the daunting responsibility of maintaining the balance between the need to preserve the natural beauty of wildlife habitats and promoting access to ramblers. Work teams slog inconspicuously in extreme weather and at high altitudes to maintain the footpaths in good condition. Snowdonia Appeal is the National Trust’s drive to raise funds to support conservation projects. It is complemented by the Snowdonia Marathon, now in its 25th year; a gruelling contest held in October where the runners have to circle Mount Snowdon.

Understandably, Mount Snowdon has attracted the pen of travel writers since ancient times. Among these is Gerald of Wales, an eleventh century monk who wrote The Journey through Wales. The medieval Welsh were much in awe of Snowdon. Gerald wrote that the peaks, “… seemed to rear their lofty summits right up to the clouds.” The medieval Welsh called the Snowdon peaks Eyri, meaning the haunt of eagles.

Snowdonia boasts some of the most imposing historic buildings of Britain, perfectly exemplified by the great castles built by Edward I of England. The warrior king built a chain of mighty castles in North Wales to secure the conquest of this turbulent country. Caernarfon was built to mirror the walls of Constantinople, which the King had visited while undertaking a Crusade. The great castle became a symbol of his conquest and power in Wales. The castle was also the place where the first Prince of Wales, Edward I’s son, was invested with that title. The ceremony for the investiture of that Royal title is still carried out in Caernarfon to this day.1

Conwy castle’s thick walls were tailored to fit a rock site that guarded the entrance to the river Conwy. Its massive, menacing towers were a terrifying symbol of strength, domination and permanence of the English rule in Wales. To the Welsh, it was a symbol of oppression. Spanning the river just below the castle, you can admire the Telford Suspension Bridge, a one-lane passage through which all traffic to North Wales had to pass during the 19th and early 20th centuries in order to cross the river. The increase in volume of traffic has spurred the building of a wider bridge sending Telford into retirement.

Bodnant Gardens, not far from Conwy, are an 80-acre oasis of landscaped beauty and stunning flora. The gardens are situated on sloping ground overlooking the River Conwy, looking east towards the Snowdon peaks. Bodnant Hall was built on the upper garden, which consists of formal, Italian-style terraced gardens and an informal lawn shaded by trees. The Dell, or lower garden, runs naturally along the valley of the river Hiraethlyn and consists of a wild garden with a stream gushing through it. Walking along the cobbled paths you can admire an immense variety of plants from all over the world, including China, North America, Europe and Japan. Bodnant is at its zenith in May, when its rhododendrons, magnolias, azaleas and camellias are in full bloom and its 100-foot-long laburnum arch is ablaze.

If you want to taste the wilder aspect of Snowdonia in its full glory, spending a day walking is a must. Various planned walking routes have been designated by the tourist board in the area around Betws-y-Coed. These range from short strolls to longer arduous treks, taking you through delightfully varied landscapes. You are spoilt for choice and limited only by time. Rugged mountains, wooded hills, spectacular waterfalls, shimmering lakes and mysterious remains from the past are waiting for you to be discovered.

The Celtic character of Wales, with its legends, heroes and declining language, seems to hide warily amongst the rugged peaks of Snowdonia, like the myth of Arthws (the legendary Arthur) who is supposed to be ‘sleeping’ but who, according to legend, will return in times of need. Perhaps, Celtic Welsh culture is the embodiment of this myth, waiting to emerge from centuries of suppression to flourish once more and be celebrated by visitors from all over the world.

1 The investiture of Prince Charles, the current Prince of Wales, took place amid the protests of Welsh nationalists on July 1, 1969.

Richard Zahra has just returned from a visit to Scotland and will be writing a review of his chat with author Mark Oxbrow about Rosslyn Chapel in the next issue of Celtic Heritage.